Spantik 7027m

This expedition is a superb climbing opportunity in a fabulous range of mountains. Spantik is part of the mountain chain which forms the boundary between Hunza and Baltistan in one of the quieter parts of the Karakoram Himalaya. The dramatic approach trek along the Chogolungma Glacier passes through a variety of beautiful mountain surroundings far from the regular trekking routes. Straightforward climbing leads to the summit of the mountain where clear conditions result in tremendous views in all directions.

The Nagar and Hunza peaks can be seen close by to the west, while Nanga Prabat lies to the south and K2 and the Baltoro peaks can be seen on the eastern horizon. The homeward trek crosses the steep Haramosh La giving access to an entire different valley system, providing an interesting finale to the expedition.

The ascent route follows Spantik’s south east ridge. This is a long and demanding snow ridge with few sections of technical difficulty and little objective danger. This route was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock Workman who reached a very creditable high point of 6700m. Karl Kramer’s German expedition made the first successful ascent of the mountain by this route in 1955. It has now been repeated more than a dozen times since the first ascent by parties from several nations.

Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective: an ideal next step for those who have previously climbed a 6000m trekking peak, or for those preparing for an 8000m expedition.

Expedition Report

Our first trip to Spantik in 2000 resulted in 9 members of the team reaching the summit : 5 clients, 2 leaders and 2 local staff. The ascent turned out to be a more difficult proposition than expected, due to the length of the route and the unpredictability of weather and snow conditions. Some of the party found the climb was just too physically demanding. On the whole the more experienced mountaineers performed best. The length of the long undulating snow ridge presented the major difficulty. A high degree of stamina was required to make repeated journeys between the high camps and cope with the 'big mountain experience'. The 2000 team were undoubtedly very lucky with fine weather on their summit attempt, as the majority of expeditions in the area had a low success rate. The return journey via the Haramosh La provided an exciting and rewarding finale to the expedition.

Spantik is undoubtedly the safest, easiest and most straightforward 7,000m peak in the Karakoram. However it is a much more demanding ascent then the popular Nepalese trekking peaks. Only a few groups attempt it each year and the total number of people who have ever reached the summit is probably only a little over 100.

High Adventure and Jagged Globe

This expedition is being organised by Jagged Globe who are solely responsible for all issues relating to sales and reservations. Based in Sheffield, Jagged Globe are Britain's longest running and most successful expedition organiser. Spantik 2001 will be the sixth Karakoram expedition David Hamilton has led for Jagged Globe. Efficient expert advice prior to departure combined with the best field operation in the Karakoram ensure that our expeditions enjoy the highest levels of client satisfaction and summit success.

  

Our flight arrives in Islamabad in the early morning. The next day we have a chance to explore the twin cities of Islamabad/Rawalpindi and obtain our climbing permit from the Ministry of Tourism. The following morning we take the spectacular flight to Skardu passing close to Nanga Parbat. If the flight is unable to operate because of bad weather we make the journey by road. Skardu is the administrative capital of Baltistan and the base for expeditions visiting this region of the Karakoram. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the many travellers purchasing supplies and hiring porters.

Our next destination is the small village of Arandu which is an 85km jeep journey along narrow mountain roads. After hiring our local porters from the village, we embark on our first day of trekking to arrive at a campsite overlooking the Chogolungma Glacier by mid afternoon. A day of trekking along the ablation valley on the north side of the glacier is followed by a day crossing the ice to reach Spantik base camp.

We have almost two weeks to climb Spantik. The route follows the 8km long South East Ridge. From base camp at 4,300m we climb a steep rocky slope to camp 1 and then a further two camps are placed along the gently angled ridge before the summit push. The porters will carry most of our equipment as we make a number of steady altitude gains and light load carries to aid acclimatisation. The climbing on summit day involves a gentle traverse and a 500m slope of 30°. Following our descent, we pack up base camp and head up the Haramosh Glacier to camp at the Haramosh La. The descent to Kutwal Lake camp the next day is an exciting part of the trip and involves negotiating steep scree before we descend to camp in the high pastures. The team leaves the high mountains the following day and treks out to the village of Sassi where we are collected by minibus and taken down the Karakoram Highway to Besham. From here we travel by road back to Islamabad for an afternoon of relaxing and sightseeing and a chance to celebrate the success of our expedition in fine style. The team departs from Islamabad the next day.

The Climb

The South East Ridge of Spantik is one of the most attainable routes to a 7000m summit in the Karakoram. From a rocky base camp at 4300m on the edge of the Chogolungma Glacier, the route follows moderately angled snow slopes. The South East Ridge rises 2700m over its 8Km length. The slopes are mostly 30° or less with short sections of 40°. Camp 1 will be placed at a height of 5250m, camp 2 at 5650m and camp 3 at 6250m.

Leaving base camp the climb to camp 1 follows a moderately steep slope, firstly on grass then higher up this changes to a scramble up a rocky ridge with patches of loose scree. Camp 1 is situated on a series of rocky platforms close to the snowline (4-5 hrs). The route then follows the long undulating ridge mostly on snow to the large level site of camp 2 (4-5 hrs). Above this the slope steepens and 500-600m of rope will be fixed between camp 2 and camp 3. The first section of 400m will be fixed on an open 35° slope leading to a large snow platform, sometimes used by other groups as a campsite. After a few hundred metres of easier ground a second section of 150m will be fixed as the slope steepens to 40° before reaching an obvious crest on the ridge. Shortly after this camp 3 will be placed on a wide snow ledge below the summit slopes (4-5 hrs). The route to the summit from camp 3 is quite straightforward. A gentle slope rises to a height of 6550m where it steepens to join the SW ridge. This is then followed for 400m at an average angle of 30° until it levels out 100m below the summit. The top of the mountain is a rounded snow dome and 50m of rope may be fixed on the short section leading onto the summit slopes (6-8 hrs ascent / 2-3 hrs descent).

Fixed ropes will be placed on any steep or awkward sections on the climb and straightforward sections will be well marked with marker wands. Prior to the summit push, all members need to help with the load carrying and placement of camps. This not only supports the logistic build-up on the mountain which we need for a safe ascent, but also provides essential acclimatisation for each member. Even so, high altitude porters do most of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out before they can attempt the summit. Members will do no more load carrying than they require to move their personal equipment and ensure their acclimatisation.

The exact programme on the mountain will depend on a number of factors including prevailing weather and snow conditions plus team members degree of fitness and acclimatisation. However all members of the group should expect to make 3 journeys to camp 1, 2 journeys to camp 2, 1 or 2 journeys to camp 3, plus a summit bid. This may require 8 or 9 days of activity on the mountain for each person during the 13 days allocated to the climb. Climbers joining this expedition will require the strength and stamina to make these targets as well as the ability to rest and live efficiently in the high camps. High day time temperatures during good weather spells often mean that much of the climbing is undertaken in the early hours of the morning. It is typical to start from a high camp at 0200-0300 hrs and reach the next camp by 0800-0900 hrs.

Overall, the route and the campsites are objectively safe and are not threatened by any significant avalanche danger. Given good snow and weather conditions this route offers a high chance of summit success for strong climbers who are able to adapt to the demands of ‘expedition style’ mountaineering.

  

Leadership

The Spantik expedition will be led by David Hamilton who led our first successful expedition to the mountain. Spantik 2001 will be the 15th consecutive season that David has guided in the Karakoram. David has led more than 30 groups on some of the most challenging treks and trekking peaks in the region. He has also led 10 expeditions to major Karakoram peaks such as Masherbrum (7821m), Chogolisa (7668m), Tirich Mir (7708m), Gasherbrum I(8068m), Muztagh Ata (7564m) and Gasherbrum II (8035m). If team numbers are sufficient, an additional suitably qualified western leader will assist David.

On the mountain the group will benefit from the support of several hand picked high altitude porters (HAP’s). These will be men who have worked with our groups in the Karakoram before. Most have already summited one or more 8000m peaks, and several will have previous knowledge of Spantik. They will work closely with our group: helping to break trail, establish camps on the mountain and carry loads. Their experience and abilities will be crucial in maximising the chances of a successful ascent.


Experience Required

Spantik is a superb climbing opportunity for those wanting to further their mountaineering skills and altitude experience, perhaps prior to an attempt on an 8000m peak. To join the expedition and to have a good chance of success, it is preferable that you have both technical mountaineering experience to 4000m in the Alps and trekking peak experience to 6000m in the Greater Ranges. Spantik gives a chance to join a truly 'Himalayan' style of expedition, involving fixed camps on the mountain and a rigorous acclimatisation programme. The ability to live and work for an extended period of time beyond base camp is a more relevant skill than high grade technical ice climbing on this expedition.


Equipment

To join the Spantik expedition you will need the following specialist equipment:
Climbing harness
Ascender (eg Petzl/Jumar)
Descending device (preferably a figure of 8)
Lightweight climbing helmet
Ice axe
Crampons
Plastic mountaineering boots
4/5-season sleeping bag

A complete suggested kit list is included with the Expedition Dossier which is sent to you on receipt of your booking for the trip.