High Adventure, mountaineering, trekking and ski touring.
David Hamilton / High Adventure
67 Castle Road, Hartshill, Nuneaton, Warwickshire, CV10 0SG, UK
Telephone: +44 (0)2476 395422
Fax: +44 (0)2476 394465
Email: david@highadventure.org.uk

Karakoram Exploration Trek 2001

Remote passes and peaks of the Pakistan / China frontier region
This unique journey into the heart of the Karakoram range combines a challenging trek through dramatic scenery with the chance to make ascents of little known 6000m peaks. It is a sustained and strenuous high altitude adventure where the logistics take on a scale more normally associated with a mountaineering expedition. The trekking route follows seldom visited river valleys leading onto the largest snow covered glaciers in the Himalayas. Each day brings an ever changing panorama of soaring rock spires and towering peaks of snow and ice. .
On top of Skam La 5407m

Our route circumnavigates the majestic peak of the Ogre which remains an ever present feature on the horizon. The highlight of the trip is the ascent of the 5407m Skam La, from which K2 can be seen in the distance on a clear day. We use two ‘base camp’ areas during the middle part of the journey. A number of straightforward trekking ascents can be made to high vantage points form these . More experienced climbers can take advantage of this period to ascend higher peaks such as c6000m Hanipispur. Very few climbing and trekking groups visit this area and it remains totally unchanged since the explorations of Younghusband in 1889 and Shipton in 1939. This programme has been designed to suit experienced mountain walkers with a high level of fitness. It is a true mountain adventure offering a rewarding and challenging experience in a dramatic and beautiful setting.


Dates August 25 - September 22 2001
(29 days)
Campsite on the Biafo glacier
Land cost £1645 (joining in Islamabad)
Flights £500 approx (from UK)
Leader David Hamilton
Booking Details Complete the High Adventure booking form
  

Previous trips

High Adventure has organised more than 30 treks and expeditions in the Karakoram Himalayas over a 14 year period. We have pioneered group treks into the remote region to the northeast of the Biafo glacier. We have led the only three groups into this area in recent times. We know of no other trekking parties who have crossed the Skam La pass. Our 1996 party discovered a previously uncrossed pass linking the upper Trango glacier with the Panmah glacier. These journeys have been made possible by our careful attention to the complexities of provisioning a sizeable group of clients and local staff in a remote area. We work with the same group of local sirdars, cooks and porters each year. They are more competent than the majority of Balti porters and are therefore better able to cope with the technical sections of our exploratory treks.


Trek report

The 2001 exploratory trek will be a new variant of a project which we last operated in 1999. The 1999 group used a base camp at Skinmang in order to explore trekking and climbing objectives in the Chiring glacier for eight days before a heavy snowfall curtailed these activities and destroyed the mess tent. When conditions improved the group continued over the Skam La into the Sim Gang and Biafo glaciers. As with our previous journeys in this region we encountered no other people.


Trek Details

The greatest concentration of high peaks over 7000m in the world is found in the Karakoram Himalaya. This area has justifiably become very popular with mountaineers and trekkers during the last decade. Access to this vast mountain region is simplified by the existence of a huge glacial corridor running from the northwest to the southeast of the range. The Hispar, Biafo and Baltoro glaciers cut deep channels through the heart of the Karakoram creating 'natural' trekking routes. Most visitors to the range have restricted their journeys to these increasingly busy areas. Since we began operating trekking tours in Pakistan fourteen years ago we have specialised in opening up new treks in remote areas. We aim to offer at least one new 'exploratory' trek each year. In 1996, 1997 and 1999 we led three new treks in the area northeast of the Biafo glacier. Each of these expeditions was outstandingly successful providing adventurous trekking in a pristine wilderness environment.

In 2001 we shall be offering another new itinerary in this area. This will differ from our previous ‘exploratory treks’ as we shall be using two ‘base camp’ sites for part of the programme. Each will be occupied for a period of 4-5 days. This will enable members of the group to explore a variety of trekking and climbing objectives well away from the regular trekking routes. The superbly situated base camp site of Skinmang, at the junction of the Panmah and Chiring glaciers, is an ideal location from which to explore the surrounding area. The site itself is carpeted with grass and flowers and has a small stream of clear water close by. Glaciers radiate in all directions leading to many spectacular peaks and a few easier summits. In addition passes leading to the main Karakoram watershed (the Pakistan / China border) can be visited. The second ‘base camp’ site on the Nobande Sobande glacier is ideally located for an ascent of c6000m Hanipispur by the west ridge.

The journey to the mountains starts from Skardu, the administrative centre of Baltistan. From here we drive along the recently completed road to Askole, the starting point for all expeditions to the 8000m peaks of the upper Baltoro. We take this busy trail for one day to camp by the bridge at Jola. Branching off the main track we follow the Dumordo river northwards towards the Panmah glacier to camp by some herders huts overlooking the glacial snout. The route then crosses to a pleasant ablation valley on the east side of the Panmah glacier before continuing across the Chiring glacier to ‘Skinmang’ base camp. This area is renowned locally for its population of ibex, snow leopards and Himalayan brown bears.

On completion of the climbing programme the group will walk westwards along the Nobande Sobande glacier to the 5407m Skam La. Crossing this is a serious undertaking and up to 500m of rope will be fixed to assist the porters in making a safe descent of the steep western side. This gives access to the huge expanse of snow and ice formed by the Sim Gang glacier and Snow Lake. Our route then turns to the south entering the upper reaches of the Biafo glacier. It follows this wide ice highway past towering rock spires. This innovative trekking route traverses four huge glaciers to circumnavigate the mountain massif of the Ogre. This is undoubtedly one of the most adventurous and challenging treks in the Himalayas.

  

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1: Depart London Heathrow on scheduled PIA flight.

Day 2 Arrive in Islamabad and attend pre-trek briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Day spent resting or sightseeing in Rawalpindi and Islamabad. Overnight in Shalimar Hotel.

Day 3 Travel to Skardu, the administrative centre of Baltistan. This prosperous frontier town on the banks of the Indus River is encircled by snow covered peaks. If weather conditions permit we will fly, however bad weather in the mountains often causes the flight to be cancelled. In this case we will make the long road journey up the Karakoram Highway.

Day 4 An exciting jeep journey takes us through the fields of the Shigar valley before the road narrows to a mountain track leading to the roadhead at Askole where we camp on the edge of the village. (6-7hrs)

Day 5 Porters are assembled to carry our luggage for the next section of the journey. Leaving Askole we cross the Braldu river on a small wooden bridge before passing the snout of the Biafo glacier on our way to the campsite at Jola. (6-7hrs)

Day 6 Leaving the main Baltoro track we follow the Dumordo river northwards through a dry landscape scattered with small trees and bushes. We must cross two small streams flowing down from the hills to the west before reaching camp below the snout of the Panmah glacier. (5-6hrs)

Day 7 Following moraine slopes high above the west bank of the Panmah glacier we continue to trek northwards, crossing one tributary glacier on the way to the campsite at Horpika. (5-6hrs)

Day 8 We cross the Panmah glacier to a lunch stop at Shingchapbi Biaho and then continue along the eastern edge of the glacier to Skinmang on the far side of the Chiring glacier. (7hrs)

Day 9 Rest day in Skinmang. This pleasant campsite at 4200m will be our base for the next few days. It is a small oasis of grass in the midst of a sea of rocks and ice with great views over the surrounding peaks and glaciers.

Days 10-14 Trekking and climbing programme part 1 (5 days). There are several options including:

Unnamed & unclimbed c5500m peaks NE of Tsokar camp
There are several snow covered ‘dome’ peaks on the Pak / China border. These can be climbed without presenting any technical difficulty and are probably the easiest ascents in this part of the Karakoram (3-4 day round trip from Skinmang).

West Muztagh Pass 5370m
The historic ‘New Muztagh Pass’ was once a trade route between Baltistan and China. By the time early European explorers visited the area it had fallen into disuse. Both Godwin Austen (1861) and Younghusband (1887) attempted it and reported that the pass was uncrossable. Recent glacial movements have again made the ascent of this pass a straightforward walk. (4-5 day round trip from Skinmang).

Day 15 Together with our porters we trek westwards along the level surface of the Nobande Sobande glacier to a spectacularly located campsite high on a rocky outcrop. At a height of 4770m this will our base for the next five days. (7hrs)

Day 16-19 Trekking and climbing programme part 2 (4 days).

Hanipispur c6000m
This attractive peak lies on the ridge which separates the Nobande Sobande glacier from the Choktoi glacier. It offers an excellent vantage point with great views of the Ogre and Latok peaks. The route to the summit follows the gently angled snowy west ridge. This is not a busy ‘trekking peak’ and has perhaps only had one previous ascent (3-4 day round trip from Nobande Sobande camp). There are also other easier peaks on the north side of the glacier.

Day 20 A long day of trekking on gently rising ground leads through dramatic mountain scenery towards the head of the glacier. We walk under the south face of Bobisghir getting good views of the Ogre’s north face on our way to camp in a snow bowl below the Skam La. (7-8hrs)

Day 21 An early start is needed to ensure good snow conditions on the 5407m Skam La pass. The ascent on the east side is quite gentle but the descent of the steeper western slope requires the use of fixed ropes. Once the whole party has reached the upper Sim Gang glacier we make a long trek to reach a rocky campsite overlooking the west face of the Ogre. (8-10hrs)

Day 22 Continuing over the wide icy expanse of the Sim Gang glacier we trek westwards to the junction of the Biafo glacier and Snow Lake. This is one of the largest expanses of snow in the Himalayas and is ringed by numerous dramatic spires of rock and ice. Turning south we descend the wide ice highway of the Biafo glacier to the sandy campsite at Nakpogoro. (8-9hrs)

Day 23 The surface of the Biafo glacier changes from level ice to a jumble of rocks as we gradually lose height. After passing the Baintha glacier which leads to the south face of the Ogre we leave the glacier and cross into the ablation valley. This gives a short section of easy walking leading to the grass campsite at Shafong. (7-8hrs)

Day 24 The day starts with easy walking on the level stone covered glacier, but the surface soon changes to a jumble of loose rocks which slows progress. The small campsite at Namla is located on a shelf high above the glacier. (7-8hrs)

Day 25 The final day of the trek is not an easy one. Loose stones make the walking difficult as we leave the Biafo glacier and enter the wide Braldu glacier. A good path on the final section leads into Askole village. (6-7hrs)

Day 26 Waiting jeeps transport the group along the mountain road through the Shigar valley to Skardu. A welcome hot shower awaits in the K2 hotel.

Day 27 Flight from Skardu to Islamabad (weather permitting).

Day 28 Reserve day for completing travel to Islamabad, possibly by road.

Day 29 Fly Islamabad to London


Expedition style

The trek leader will be assisted by an experienced local team of sirdars, cooks and porters. On the trek to and from the base camp areas all equipment will be carried by local porters. Clients need only carry a light day pack on the walk-in and walk-out sections. In base camps the group will enjoy the full time services of local cooks together with a large mess tent and kitchen tent. Above base camps a limited amount of ‘high porter’ support will be available although clients will be expected to carry their own loads and do their own cooking. The exact programme to be followed above base camps will depend on factors such as prevailing weather and snow conditions and the wishes of the group members. The crossing of the Skam La will be done in a ‘lightweight’ style. Heavy base camp equipment (Mess tent, chairs etc)will be left behind and the group will be expected to carry and cook their own lightweight food. Porters will be available to carry group and personal equipment.


Climate and Terrain

The later summer months of August and September are towards the end of the Karakoram trekking season. The weather is generally quite good. Sunshine and clear blue skies can be expected on 60-70% of days. The temperature during the day should be pleasant for walking at altitudes between 3000m - 4000m. Below 3000m it can be quite hot during the day, while night temperatures above 4000m can dip below 0°C. Above 5000m it is noticeably colder than in the early summer. A few days of precipitation can be expected. At lower altitudes this will take the form of mist or rain. Higher up this will fall as snow. During the trek we will encounter a variety of conditions underfoot. For a few days we will be walking on good paths. Several days will involve crossing large expanses of glacial moraine and scree. This can either be difficult or easy depending on the size and stability of the rocks. Most of the glacier walking will be on 'dry' sections of fairly flat ice. This provides a pleasant and easy walking surface. On sections of snow covered glacier the party will use ropes to guard against the dangers of hidden crevasses.

Equipment Notes


All group items such as personal tents, kitchen tent, mess tent, chairs, kitchen equipment, stoves, food and fuel, ropes and group climbing equipment will be supplied by High Adventure. Clients need only provide their own personal climbing equipment, clothing, footwear, sleeping bag and sleeping mat. For the trekking sections strong walking boots will be adequate. Crampons, ice axe and a climbing harness will be needed for the crossing of the Skam La pass. Those intending to climb peaks of 6000m should additionally bring plastic mountaineering boots and suitable clothing. A full list of suggested clothing and equipment for each option will be supplied to all clients.

  

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