Aconcagua 6959m

During the Xmas/New Year holiday period 2001-02 we are again climbing Aconcagua by the quieter eastern side. This is a more challenging but not technically demanding route suitable for anyone with several years mountain walking experience. Our expedition also offers the option to climb to the summit from the highest camp by the harder and more interesting Polish Glacier route. The Polish glacier option is suitable for anyone with some winter or Alpine climbing experience.

The starting point for the eastern routes on Aconcagua is from the main road at Punta de Vacas (2400m). From here we trek in up the Vacas and Relinchos river valleys for almost fifty kilometres on rough trails to reach the Plaza Argentina base camp at 4200m. It is then a couple of hard days over scree slopes to a high camp at the foot of the Polish Glacier at 5900m. From here we join the ‘normal route’ for a long day over scree and snow on the north slopes, finishing up the infamous 'Canaleta'. The Polish route leaves from the same camp, taking the Polish glacier and spectacular east ridge to the summit.

Before going to Aconcagua we always make a short trip to the beautiful and quiet Cordon del Plata, camping as high as 4000m. There will be a chance to climb one of the smaller peaks in the range (5000-5500m) as a training peak for our ascent of Aconcagua. This warm up trip has proved useful and very popular with clients in the past. Aconcagua is an excellent choice of peak for very fit people who want to climb an extremely high mountain without great technical difficulty.

  

Outline Itinerary

High Adventure and Andes

This expedition is being operated by the UK based South American specialists ‘Andes’. Over a ten year period ‘Andes’ have built a reputation for leading high quality trekking and climbing adventures to all the major mountain ranges of South America, including more than 20 expeditions to Aconcagua. This project will benefit from the expert logistical support of ‘Andes’ in the UK and Argentina and will be led on the mountain by David Hamilton the owner of High Adventure. David will be visting Aconcagua for the third time having led successful expeditions to this mountain in 1994 and 1999. He has also led five 8000m expeditions including Everest.


Aconcagua

At 6959m Aconcagua is the highest mountain in South America. It is one of the most spectacular peaks in the Andes, and lies entirely in Argentina but close to the Chilean frontier. Aconcagua has a huge and impressive south face and towers above the surrounding mountains. It has a reputation for high winds and bad weather. The normal route is on the north slopes of the mountain and although there is no climbing it is still a great challenge due to the altitude and loose scree in the 'Canaleta' below the summit. In many years an ice-axe and crampons are also necessary for a safe ascent - previous experience of using these is recommended but is not essential. Aconcagua has two summits, the first recorded ascent of the higher northern summit was by Zurbriggen in 1897. However the native Indians climbed many of the high peaks of the southern Andes during the time of the Inca empire to make sacrifices and worship the sun and it is very likely they climbed Aconcagua in the 15th or 16th century. In 1950 the remains of a guanaco (related to the llama) were found at over 6500m and even more recently the desiccated remains of a boy who had been sacrificed were found high on the slopes of the mountain.


Polish Glacier Option

For those with a bit more experience we are offering an alternative summit day via the more difficult and quieter Polish Glacier route. The route is challenging but not normally technically demanding, though as with all glacier routes conditions vary from year to year. We will descend the normal route after ascending by the Polish Glacier. The route was first climbed in 1934 by a Polish expedition. Please note that we need a minimum of four clients on any expedition to be able to guarantee a choice of summit days.

Cordon Del Plata

Before going to Aconcagua we spend four nights in the Cordon del Plata, a range of lower peaks nearer to Mendoza. This mini expedition is be a good chance to get to know each other, get a feel for the conditions and get some acclimatisation before the big trip into Aconcagua. We drive to the Vallecitos ski resort at 3100m then walk up into the mountains aiming eventually to camp as high as 4000m. If expedition members are feeling fit and well acclimatised there will be a chance to climb one of the many smaller peaks in the range such as Pico Franke 5100m or perhaps even Rincon 5500m or Vallecitos 5775m.

Buenos Aries & Mendoza

We have time to see some of the city of Mendoza during the course of the expedition and depending on flight schedules we may have part of a day in Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is the capital of Argentina and one of the largest cities in South America. In the centre and on the waterfront of the River Plate there are pleasant parks and restaurants. There is also the usual mixture of art galleries, museums and presidential palaces. Mendoza is a major provincial city in the west of Argentina with over a million inhabitants. It is situated in a very dry region in the rain shadow of the Andes and is the centre of Argentina's wine industry. It is one of Argentina's most beautiful and prosperous cities, with many tree lined avenues, beautiful tiled plazas and a good choice of steak restaurants and pavement cafes. Time spent in Mendoza is always a highlight of the expedition, perhaps because the temperature can reach 35ºC in January!

Rio Gallegos and El Calafate

Rio Gallegos is a major port and communication centre in southern Patagonia. We will fly here from Buenos Aires. Like many cities in the new world it looks a bit like it was built yesterday and designed to last only until tomorrow, but being so far from home there is always something interesting to see. El Calafate, near the Los Glaciares National Park, is a much smaller village and tourist centre set on the shores of beautiful Lago Argentino. We'll have some time to rest here after our trip on to the icecap and enjoy the excellent local steaks and wine. There are also several optional sightseeing trips that can be made for those who wish to remain active, including boat trips on Lago Argentino and the famous Perito Moreno glacier.

Climate

The climate at altitude in the Andes is cold, windy and extremely dry. High on the mountain temperatures can fall to -20ºC at night. During the day it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be cold and windy. Temperatures in the Vacas and Relinchos valley are usually a very pleasant 25-30ºC during the day, but cool at night. It will be very hot in Mendoza (up to 35ºC) so don't forget to pack a T-shirt. It should be dry most of the time we are there, although there is a chance of a snow storm in the mountains.

The unique 'Andes' programme

What we are offering is quite different from the package ascents of the normal route offered by most other companies. We use an independent approach route avoiding the heavily used Horcones valley. Only on the last part of summit day do we join the busier 'normal' route. Our ascent will be ‘Alpine' in style. We will get some acclimatisation with our short trip to the Cordon del Plata, then climb Aconcagua making steady daily progress upwards with minimal load carrying. Many people are still using siege tactics on Aconcagua, which involves a lot of time sitting at an unpleasant base camp, then repeated ascending and descending on the same route to establish high camps. From what we've seen it often involves carrying a lot of heavy equipment both up and down the mountain! We have made successful ascents of Aconcagua every year using a programme of acclimatisation ascents followed by an 'Alpine' style summit bid. Our recent Aconcagua trips had impressive summit success rates, by both the normal and Polish rotues, better than many other teams on the mountain at the same time and worse than none. Our party will be small, with a maximum of six clients plus British leader and local assistant. We use mules to help us transport extra food and climbing gear to base camp (and rubbish back out) but otherwise we will be a small group on the mountain. This lightweight approach has less impact on sensitive mountain areas. We have a better client to guide ratio than many of our competitors, with no more than three clients per guide on Aconcagua.

Fitness and experience required

Ascents to over 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a programme of intensive exercise such as running, circuit training, squash or cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months before the expedition. If you don't do this sort of exercise you are unlikely to get to the top - Aconcagua is a physically demanding expedition. The Vacas route is longer than the busy 'normal' route, but on the whole an easy ascent route with few difficulties, suitable for those with a little winter or Alpine walking experience. For the Polish Glacier option some previous winter or Alpine climbing experience is recommended.

Hardships

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success climbing such a big mountain. Clients should be prepared for cold nights whilst camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times in the mountains. Everyone must be able to carry their share of expedition equipment on their back above base camp. Weights carried will be about 20-25kg. As we will be a long way from the nearest supermarket we will have to put up with tinned and/or dehydrated food in our diet during our time on the mountain. All customers are expected to assist with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up.

Flights from London to Mendoza via Buenos Aires, the Argentine capital, cost from about £700. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we then all fly on the same plane. If you prefer you are welcome to arrange flights yourself.


Health, Hygiene & Security

Argentina is one of the more developed countries in South America and the standard of hygiene is generally as good as at home. You would be unlucky to get an upset stomach or diarrhoea. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are almost certainly less likely than they are in any British city. Everyone who visits Argentina is overwhelmed by how much like a part of Europe the country is.

Accommodation

While we are staying in Mendoza accommodation will be in a clean and secure hotel with private bathroom. We normally use a small centrally located hotel with a friendly atmosphere, rather than a big luxury hotel. When out in the mountains we use modern lightweight tents (supplied by us) - you'll need a warm sleeping bag and karrimat or thermarest.

Suggested further reading

Expedition organisation

This expedition falls somewhere between the large, rigidly organised expeditions of the larger companies and the frustrations, hassles and uncertainties of independent travel in an unfamiliar country. Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and led by us, but we will consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip. Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.


Expedition size

The minimum number of customers we need to run an Aconcagua expeditions is three. The maximum size of each expedition will be six customers plus leader and assistant.

Warning

Aconcagua is a popular choice as a first 6000m peak. However many other expeditions are more suitable if you have not climbed in the Andes or Himalayas before. Though the ascent is just a 'walk', Aconcagua is physically and psychologically a tough expedition because of frequent bad weather and the extended period of wilderness camping.
Before booking on Aconcagua you should have experience of at least two of the following:-
1. Previous ascent to over 6000m
2. Recent experience of extended wilderness camping and/or camping in winter conditions
3. Recent backpacking experience
4. Ability to walk on scree and loose ground
If you have none of these previous experiences you should not book any Aconcagua trip - our expeditions are no more demanding than any others, Aconcagua is just a very tough mountain.